Pales in Comparison

Castillo de Monseran
Garnacha
12.5% alcohol
$9.00
2005

The second wine that was served at the Atlantic Tasting Room was a spanish "grenache". Grenache, or Garnacha as it is known in Spain, is a heat loving grape. In warm years it can produce a real blockbuster of a wine, round and spicy. But in less than perfect conditions it can be a little thin and non-descript. Obviously, the Spanish climate suits this grape well. Several weeks ago we sampled another Garnacha, Las Rocas, and the two ViniCodes make a useful comparison. (to get a larger view, simply click on the images) Overall the Las Rocas was a bigger wine. Almost everything about it registered higher on the ViniCode scales. The most obvious difference is the alcohol content. The Castillo de Monseran was at 12.5% and the Las Rocas came in at a whopping 14.5% (this is California Zinfandel country). What does this mean? Well right off of the bat I would say that 2004 was warmer and the grapes were riper - they had a higher sugar content. So as a result, the yeast had more food available, and converted it to alcohol. And to be honest I thought the Castillo was a little thin. When my glass was poured, I was told that this wine would be big and jammy. I didn't think so. The quality that seemed to jump out at me on first smell was a distinct earthiness, a dampness. I know that there is a rogue yeast called brettanomyces and once it invades a winery it is tough to get rid of. Although I have never had anyone say... "What you are smelling is brettanomyces", I imagine this damp odor to be it. This is not always a bad thing. It can add some real complexity to a wine, a certain barnyard interest. But the wine has to be able to stand up to it. In my opinion, this wine did not. But I read some other reviews of this wine on the web and people were loving it! Calling it a great bargain. So there you go. Imagine that, differing opinions on wine. Unfortunately, it didn't do it for me. As far as I am concerned a great bargain is Archeo Nero d'Avola reviewed below (Nero, Our (Cheap) Hero). Would I buy it again? No.