The ViniCode™

A Wedding, A Wine, A Weekend

Cesari
Amarone
14% alcohol
$36
2003

Amarone is one of Italy's great wines. In a country featuring the three "B's" of splurge wines (Barolo, Brunello, Barbaresco), Amarone, from the Veneto region, is a wonderfully unique choice. When people speak of the great grapes of winemaking, some names are repeated again and again. Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot Noir, Merlot, and Chardonnay are, of course, the staples. They are known the world over for their characteristic quality. So you might be surprised that big powerful Amarone touts the not-so-common varieties of Corvina, Rondinello and Molinara. How can it be? These are not noble grapes!?! Well Amarone proves that most of the art of winemaking lies, not with the grape, but in the hands of the winemaker. In order to reduce those grape to their essence, Amarone producers dry them, intensifying their flavors and sugars. The result is a big, bold, fruity wine that is like nothing else. This 2003 version was absolutely delicious and without a doubt a fruit bomb as the ViniCode demonstrates. It was not the dryest wine we have ever tasted, but that probably added to the roundness. (Amarone's can be quite harsh if not allowed to age properly, or breathe before serving) All of the tasters could sense the presence of the oak, bringing another dimension to the wine but not trying to take over. Also adding to the complexity were the aromas and tastes of tobacco and mineral that complemented the fruitiness nicely. Amarones tend to be a mouthful and Cesari did not disappoint! If you have never tried an Amarone, I would say that the ViniCode breakdown here, is pretty characteristic. They are pricey, and if  you are a frugal wine purchaser, be sure and consult the wine expert. Your first experience with this wonderful wine should be a pleasant one. Like Venice, on the surface, this wine seems a little over the top, but if you are persistent you might be surprised at the subtle treasures that await. Thanks to Clare, Erik and Karin Aslaksen for a wine that rivaled a weekend! Happy First Anniversary!

Sweet Surprise

Alice White
Lexia
10% alocohol
$7
2006

This is what happens when you don't pay attention to what you are buying. Over the past month or so, I have been purchasing wines at my local grocery store. The point of these reviews is to find some real bargains; wines that are accessible to everyone and won't break the bank. I chose Alice White because I know their chardonnay is very popular and I thought it would be a great "Wine of the Week". One sip and I was stunned. I didn't remember Alice White chardonnay being this sweet. Needless to say I had chosen the wrong wine - but what a pleasant surprise! The bouquet is one of the nicest I have ever smelled. It was like strolling through a beautiful garden. Orange blossoms and honeysuckle were everywhere! And the taste was as fruity as the smell, sweet and delicious. The wine is very round - and this may be its only drawback. If you enjoy this wine while it is cold, then the brisk crispness balances the sweetness. But if it is allowed to warm up, it becomes rather flabby, and unremarkable. I detected no oak and no earth. So you can't say that this wine was complex. But so what? It was delightfully fruity and almost like a little present for your mouth. Would I knowingly buy it again? As nice as this wine was, I would probably have to say no. If I was looking for something sweet as an aperitif, a dinner starter, I would probably go with a Moscato d'Asti. Moscato's bubbles are just so much fun. But if you like sweet wines give this Lexia a try, you can't beat the price.

Back from the Brink... Again!

Las Brisas
Rueda
13% alcohol
$10
2006

If you didn't already know that this wine was from Northwest Spain, you might think, from looking at the ViniCode™, that this wine was a Sauvignon Blanc from New Zealand. And the tastes are that similar! But the grape from which this wine comes, Verdejo, is far less familiar than the ubiquitous SB. Spain is not known for their high quality white grapes, and Verdejo is generally seen as one of the better ones. It is native to Northwest Spain and is the principal component of Rueda whites. Las Brisas is 100% Verdejo. Rueda, the region, was destroyed by the Moors in the 10th Century, but rescued from complete devastation by Alphonse XI  in the 11th Century. It was under his reign that wine began to be commercially produced in the area. At this time the preferred style was a sweeter, sherry-like beverage. As history repeats, the 20th Century was also not very kind to Rueda which again suffered in the Spanish Civil War. It was the venerable winemaker Marques de Riscal that saved the region and the grape. Now these wines are being favorably compared to Sancerre and New Zealand's Sauvignon Blancs. With the summer drawing to a close, this is the perfect time to enjoy one of these light, acidic wines. As you are drinking it, notice how it opens up as it warms. Where a sauvignon blanc might become lackluster, this Rueda becomes riper and fuller. We would definitely buy this wine again.