A Wedding, A Wine, A Weekend

Cesari
Amarone
14% alcohol
$36
2003

Amarone is one of Italy's great wines. In a country featuring the three "B's" of splurge wines (Barolo, Brunello, Barbaresco), Amarone, from the Veneto region, is a wonderfully unique choice. When people speak of the great grapes of winemaking, some names are repeated again and again. Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot Noir, Merlot, and Chardonnay are, of course, the staples. They are known the world over for their characteristic quality. So you might be surprised that big powerful Amarone touts the not-so-common varieties of Corvina, Rondinello and Molinara. How can it be? These are not noble grapes!?! Well Amarone proves that most of the art of winemaking lies, not with the grape, but in the hands of the winemaker. In order to reduce those grape to their essence, Amarone producers dry them, intensifying their flavors and sugars. The result is a big, bold, fruity wine that is like nothing else. This 2003 version was absolutely delicious and without a doubt a fruit bomb as the ViniCode demonstrates. It was not the dryest wine we have ever tasted, but that probably added to the roundness. (Amarone's can be quite harsh if not allowed to age properly, or breathe before serving) All of the tasters could sense the presence of the oak, bringing another dimension to the wine but not trying to take over. Also adding to the complexity were the aromas and tastes of tobacco and mineral that complemented the fruitiness nicely. Amarones tend to be a mouthful and Cesari did not disappoint! If you have never tried an Amarone, I would say that the ViniCode breakdown here, is pretty characteristic. They are pricey, and if  you are a frugal wine purchaser, be sure and consult the wine expert. Your first experience with this wonderful wine should be a pleasant one. Like Venice, on the surface, this wine seems a little over the top, but if you are persistent you might be surprised at the subtle treasures that await. Thanks to Clare, Erik and Karin Aslaksen for a wine that rivaled a weekend! Happy First Anniversary!