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Entropy - A Recipe for Going Home

Entropy is the natural yearning for disorganization, disarray. As youths we crave it, the excitement and the trills of the unknown. But as we get older we begin to look for those ties that bind. A thread of tradition that connects us to something more than the here and now. Through A Big Slice Clare and I have turned to a lovingly prepared meal and the company of friends as our life anchor.Therefore, it is no wonder that I was immediately attracted to the story of Steve Hewins, Executive Chef at La Vigne Ristorante in the new Dahlonega, Georgia development called Montaluce. His journey has taken him farther afield than Clare and I, but his destination comes full circle.

Chef Hewins is a Dunwoody, Georgia native who knew that his wanderlust was merely life telling him where he needed to be. First, it was New York City and the prestigious Culinary Institute of America. Then off to the west coast as he found himself in San Francisco with huge amounts of passion and courage, but, alas, no job. Yes, he did find a job. He began working under Jeremiah Tower at Stars Restaurant. But more importantly, he found a philosophy (influenced by Alice Waters of Edible Schoolyard fame). And most importantly he found a wife... on a plane, where else?

The philosophy that Chef Hewins adopted while in San Francisco might be called Culinary Ecology. It is regional, adaptable and seasonal. Dubbed California Cuisine here in America, he knew it was intuitive in the life for most Europeans. So, it seems, Europe was calling.

He was longing for Italy, but he took what was offered and ended up at the exquisite Hotel Bristol in Brussels. Press was good. Accolades were coming. And, believe it or not, his next advance involved a Norwegian buffet and Queen Paola of Belgium (get him to tell you the story).

Then entropy pulled him into the very heart of disorganization, literally. Munich and the Lebrun Group's mess of a hotel chain needed help. Steve was entrusted with bringing organization and profitability back. Amazingly, he did not achieve his goal with seasoned veterans, but he listened to his heart and came up with a plan that was part genius and part good samaritan. Choosing the best and brightest from the culinary students in America, Steve offered them the chance of a lifetime; a one year internship in Europe. It was a win win situation. Steve got to plant the seeds of culinary responsibility and the students had Europe as their cooking school.

So, he had advised the Queen of Belgium, and overseen a massive project in Munich, but Steve biggest leap toward the chaos of entropy came when he moved to Formia, Italy and bought his own restaurant. Naming it after its prime location, La Piazza became his heart and soul. He worked hard in the kitchen. But worked even harder to change the Italians impression of Americans. His success came when he began to be referred to not as an impersonal "the" American, but as the lovingly possessive "our" American.

So it seems that Chef Hewins' roots had been stretched pretty far. And after another successful venture in Ponce, Puerto Rico, he returned to Georgia with wife and son. And, once again, he landed exactly where he was supposed to be. Montaluce offers the allure of Italy in the mountains of North Georgia. Steve, his wife and son are home. The circle is complete. Funny isn't it? With time the manic disarray of youthful entropy can dissolve into a mature, calm fulfillment, and the ultimate destination of wanderlust is always home.

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Chef Clare Aslaksen prepares Crab Bisque.

Paris in a Basket: Markets - the Food and the People

By Nicolle Aimee Meyer & Amanda Pilar Smith

This beautiful book is both an inspiring collection of French recipes and a travel guide to a very unique part of Paris. Many are aware that Parisian markets are nothing short of an institution in France, and this book explores a number of Parisian markets and includes traditional recipes made from these markets’ goods. Paris in a Basket shows – in lovely color photographs – the everyday life of Parisians as they shop, as well as the sights Parisians see during their daily marketing.

The book is divided into sections based on the twenty arrondissements of Paris, and one market per arrondisement is explored. Each arrondisement has its own personality, and each market is a reflection of that personality. Each section starts with an introduction to the arrondisement and details the market and many of the specific vendors in the market. The recipes included in each section come directly from the vendors in that particular market.

Paris in a Basket is a beautiful book that captures everyday Parisian life in all of its colorful variations. The recipes are thoughtful and interesting, and range from appetizers, soups and salads to fish & shellfish, poultry, meat, and, of course, desserts. There are classic French recipes like Terrine de Foie Gras, but other recipes, like Tagine of Lamb, Olives, and Salt-Cured Lemons, reflect the ethnic neighborhoods in Paris.

The book’s organization is worth noting, making the contents easily accessible. Though organized by arrondissement, the beginning of the book lists recipes by type, such as appetizers, soups, salads, etc. While I recommend reading this book from start to finish, one will want to dive back in to find a favorite recipe or to “revisit” a favorite arrondissement. The book also includes a market schedule & the markets’ addresses, complete with the closest Metro station. Fish, cheese, and meat charts (with translation) are included, as is a glossary and the addresses of other notable Parisian locations and landmarks.

Paris in a Basket is a beautiful book that is well-researched and full of useful and interesting information. While there are many reasons to visit Paris, this book gives everyone just one more reason to visit the City of Love.

To purchase this book click here.

Wine Lover's Book Store and Gift Shop

Steve Saenz of the Atlanta Wine Club has created a one stop shop for all you wine lovers out there. It is a great resource for the holidays and the vinophile on your list! Click here to visit their store.

For more information on the Atlanta Wine Club, check out their website here.

A Big Slice Recommends : Thanksgiving Wine

Thanksgiving is a truly American tradition. A Big Slice suggests a bold, celebratory wine to punctuate this holiday. One that will stand up to all those rich, savory dishes. Zinfandel, America's pride, is the perfect choice. A great Thanksgiving Zin should be the spicy, fruity, deep red varietal and not the shy, blushing pink one! But there are dozens of options to choose from. Prior to the holiday, why not invite guests over for a Bacchus Box Zinfandel Challenge? The winning Zin can now take its place at your Thanksgiving table. After all doesn't your Tom Turkey deserve the best?

First Place : Seghesio
What a pleasant surprise! It was not what we expected. We fully expected the Dutton to win. But this Seghesio was wonderful. The taste was mellower than the other two, but so deep and rich. It had a zinfandel's characteristic spiciness (which falls under the earthy category), but was balanced with big, big fruit. And so smooth! I wrote at the bottom of my tasting sheet that this had to be the expensive one, it was so subtle and complex. It was also a mouthful. The wine had a lot of weight to it, but no alcohol burn. And the after taste was lingering and very pleasant. We really enjoyed this zinfandel. Have we ever had a better one? Yes (and it was a Dutton Goldfield!?!) but not tonight. And this brings us to our rule of thumb number two : at the wine shop, when faced with our final choice for this tasting, the wine expert suggested the Seghesio. So consult the experts. Often they know. And when you don't agree with their selection, let them know why. It will help on your next purchase.