Langres
In the early 1800's, Champagne was not the limpid liquid we have come to love. Because the second fermentation occurs in the bottle, the dead yeast cells left the wine murky and cloudy. The lack of clarity in Champagne was highly objectionable to Madame Clicquot of Veuve-Clicquot fame. She found that by shaking the bottles and slowly turning them upside down, you could loosen the yeast sediment. The dead yeast would settle in the neck of the bottle and could be removed. This process is called riddling, and though once done by hand, machines now do all of the shaking. Next time you serve Champagne, make the experience complete by also serving Langres, a cheese from the same region. Langres has a strong smell and a firm texture that absolutely melts in your mouth. It is produced in small cylinders with slightly bulging sides and an intentional depression, called a cuvette, in the top. It is traditional to pour a little Champagne in the depression before serving. More than a meal, this is a memory.