ABigSlice Journal

And the Wine Spectator Wine of the Year is...

Clos des Papes
Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2005
98 points / $80
7,500 cases made
France

In the Southern Rhône's recent trio of great vintages starting with 2003, no other Châteauneuf-du-Pape domaine has produced better wines than Clos des Papes. Under Vincent Avril, quality has improved steadily, and the 2003 (97 points) was Wine Spectator's No. 2 wine in 2005. At 98 points, the 2005 is Avril's best wine yet, displaying an enormous core of fruit and minerality along with massive structure. The Clos des Papes red (the estate also produces a white) is a blend of 65 percent Grenache, 20 percent Mourvèdre, 10 percent Syrah and other grapes from 74 acres of vines around Châteauneuf. Avril keeps yields low, picks vineyard blocks separately for ideal ripeness and vinifies the destemmed grapes in ceramic-lined vats. The wine is aged in large wooden foudres for up to 12 months before the final blend is assembled.

To see the entire top 10 click here.

Form Leaves Function in the Dust

Everyone who knows me knows how budget minded I am. But every now and then something comes along that is just so aesthetically beautiful that it leaves the realm of function and becomes art. That is the case with these exquisite decanters from sculptor Etienne Meneau. Looking like the root system from some exotic crystalline plant, these decanters are a little over 23 inches high and will hold the standard 750 ml bottle of wine. They are available in the US exclusively through Dean and Deluca (click here to view the online catalog) but if you would like to see the decanter in action click here for the artist's own blog. Just so you know, I have put this on my wish list. Where is my rich benefactor when I need him?

A North Georgia Renaissance

There is a lot being said and written about the Dahlonega Renaissance. We all know from Georgia History that the foundation for the birth was gold. And the rebirth? Believe it or not... wine.

This got me thinking. What exactly is involved in a successful renaissance? For an ideal blueprint we should go to the mother of all renaissances, 15th Century Florence, Italy? At its simplest, it was based on three essential things; 1. great location - a prosperous republic in the heart of fertile Tuscany, 2. benevolent benefactors - the enlightened and highly tasteful Medici Family and 3. artistic expression - just to name drop two, the passionate Michelangelo and the exquisite Botticelli. Now, let's apply this blue print to 21st Century Dahlonega, Georgia.

1. Location
Picture Tuscany in your mind's eye. It evokes images of towered towns closely huddled under red tiled roofs, hills ringed with grape vines that stripe the landscape with their army perfect rows, and Italian sunlight that turns the leaves to gold. From what I have seen, you have also just described the incredible Montaluce, mid-October. It is rustic, earthy and amazingly authentic. Italian architecture inspired villas run the gamut from the façades of romanesque churches to the towers of san Gimignano. It is so authentic, in fact, that any moment you expect to hear opera coming from the windows.

2. Benefactor
Florence's House of Medici may not have created the renaissance, but it could not have happened without them. Montaluce's answer to the Medici is the Beecham Family. Their vision is to create a development that is, in every aspect, life-enhancing. Under their supervision Montaluce is combining gracious old world style living with new world ecological responsibility. Residents are invited to try their hand at making home grown wines and at the same time dabbling in organic gardening. The Beecham's philosophy must be, "Live well at home while making the world a better place."

3. Expression
Art comes in many forms. Montaluce's artistic expression happens to take the forms of food and wine. Florence gave the world the passionate genius of Michelangelo. Montaluce's gift to North Georgia winemaking is Stefano Salvini. A master of his craft, Salvini could give local wines a much needed sensual exuberance that it has been missing. But Florence also gave us the restrained genius of Botticelli. La Vigne Ristorante's Chef Steven Hewins hopes to prepare dishes that are as subtly balanced and delicately crafted as Botticelli's best. Despite all of these external influences, Montaluce's expressions promise to be regional, seasonal and unforgettably Georgian.

There you have it. A true renaissance consists of the highest standard of ingredients - yet still the whole is greater than the sum of its parts. Montaluce's mix of prime location, conscientious benefactor, and masterful expression has the makings to surpass everyone's expectations. In this respect, beautiful Montaluce represents an honest to goodness, bona fide renaissance.